Confessions of a Reluctant Cruiser
My first Rhine River cruise with AmaWaterways
Let me start with a confession: I am not a boat person. Ocean, river, bathtub—it really doesn't matter. So when I had the opportunity to take my first European river cruise with AmaWaterways on the Rhine last year, I was excited about the destinations, but not entirely convinced about spending a week aboard a ship. As a travel advisor, I'd recommended river cruises to clients. Experiencing one for myself was another matter entirely. I decided to step outside my comfort zone, and I'm so glad I did.
A ship that never felt crowded
The smaller scale was the first surprise. With far fewer passengers than an ocean ship, everything felt comfortable and easy to navigate. I never felt crowded or stuck. Even better, there was almost always something to look at outside: villages, vineyards, churches, and castles along the banks. Instead of the black, open water I'd imagined, I watched Europe glide past my window. The journey itself became part of the pleasure.
Cologne: a cathedral that stops you in your tracks
Cologne's magnificent Gothic cathedral dominates the skyline, and standing beneath its twin spires really brings its scale home. The city has Roman roots, a lively Old Town, colorful riverside buildings, and traditional Kölsch beer halls. It's an intriguing mix of history and modern city life—and an excellent introduction to the Rhine.
Rüdesheim: wine country and a hint of Christmas
Rüdesheim am Rhein was another favorite small-town stop. Set among the vineyards of the Rhine wine region, it's known for Riesling, cozy wine taverns, and the Drosselgasse, a narrow lane of half-timbered buildings and restaurants. We arrived just as the town was dressing for the holidays. Evergreen trees and twinkling lights were appearing along the cobblestones, giving us a tantalizing preview of Christmas market season. The local specialty, Rüdesheimer Kaffee, combines coffee, Asbach brandy, whipped cream, and chocolate. Stops like this are exactly why I love exploring smaller European towns.
Heidelberg: a romantic university town
Heidelberg has the kind of old-world atmosphere that makes you want to wander without an agenda. The Neckar River, the Old Bridge, and the castle ruins overlooking the town create a beautiful setting. Germany's oldest university gives the historic center a lively feel, while its narrow streets and cafés invite you to linger. Looking out from the castle over the red rooftops and river was a memorable view.
Heidelberg from above · Personal trip photo
Heidelberg Castle · Personal trip photo
Breisach: a quieter side of the Rhine
Near the French border and the Black Forest, Breisach offers a gentler pace. St. Stephen's Minster stands above the town, with views across the Rhine Valley and vineyards. It may not be as famous as Cologne or Strasbourg, but it's a lovely example of the smaller places that make a river itinerary feel varied and personal.
Colmar: a storybook corner of Alsace
Colmar looks almost impossibly picturesque, with colorful half-timbered houses, narrow streets, and canals in the Little Venice district. Its blend of French and German influences comes through in the architecture and food, from Alsatian wines to tarte flambée. With the holiday season approaching, the town was especially charming. It felt like a place where every turn offered another photo opportunity.
Strasbourg: canals, history, and Alsatian character
Strasbourg's historic center is a wonderful place to explore on foot. The canals and half-timbered houses of La Petite France are especially beautiful, while the towering Gothic cathedral anchors the old city. Its French and German heritage is visible everywhere, and the city is famous for a Christmas market tradition dating back centuries. We were there just as the season was beginning to take shape.
The Rhine Gorge: the journey becomes the highlight
One of my favorite experiences happened without leaving the ship. As we cruised through the UNESCO-listed Upper Middle Rhine Valley, castles appeared above steep hillsides and vineyards, with small towns tucked along the river. Our cruise director offered live commentary about the castles, the history, and the legends of this stretch of the Rhine, including the Lorelei. I loved being able to sit back, listen, and watch the scenery unfold. No rushing, no directions to follow—just history passing by.
Pfalzgrafenstein Castle on the Rhine · Personal trip photo
Rhine riverside scenery · Personal trip photo
Castle along the Rhine Gorge · Personal trip photo
The Chef’s Table: a meal to remember
The food throughout the cruise was a highlight, but The Chef's Table was particularly memorable. The intimate, multi-course tasting experience felt like a special restaurant evening, with beautifully presented dishes and attentive service. The photos capture a few of the courses far better than I could describe them. It was a wonderful way to end an active day of sightseeing.
Chef’s Table starter · Personal trip photo
Chef’s Table starter · Personal trip photo
Chef’s Table starter · Personal trip photo
The crew made it personal
The crew was phenomenal. They took the time to get to know us, and by the second evening my favorite drink was already waiting at dinner. Yes, it was a Coke. I know—very adventurous! But that little detail meant a lot. It made the ship feel welcoming and familiar, not anonymous.
Early mornings, birds, and a little solitude
I'm a birdwatcher, so every morning I'd head up to the walking deck to see what I could spot along the riverbanks. Often it was wonderfully quiet, with the scenery slipping by and hardly anyone else around. Sometimes it felt like my own private vessel. For someone who'd worried about feeling confined on a boat, those peaceful mornings were an unexpected gift.
Would I do it again?
Absolutely. I loved the balance: active days exploring historic towns, followed by relaxing evenings, and those peaceful early mornings on deck. I didn't have to pack and unpack between destinations, and the scenery never stopped changing. I'm not suddenly signing up for a month crossing the open ocean, but I'd take another European river cruise without hesitation. As a travel advisor, I'm especially glad I can now recommend the experience from firsthand knowledge. If you've ever wondered whether river cruising might be for you—even if you're not a boat person—I'd love to help you explore the options.
Have you ever considered a river cruise? If you’d like help finding the right itinerary, I’d love to help you plan it. — Michelle’s Destinations Travel
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